Introduction:

As the title makes fairly clear, this is the Second Generation RX-7 FAQ. This latest edition of the FAQ, version 3.0, contains a number of new articles, and substantial rewrites of older articles. The breakdown of the sections is basically the same, and for the most part the same topics are covered simply in deeper depth. The most significant addition to this edition of the FAQ is the graphics. Thanks to some of the more technically inclined RX-7 fans out there, there are color coded wiring diagrams, and color photographs of disassembled electrical components to go along with all new instructions for repairs and installation of aftermarket equipment. For what it's worth, the usual disclaimers are here. If you screw up your car while following directions from this text, it is your problem. No warranty or suitability of this product for your intended use is either expressed or implied. If you intend to do any real work on your car, order the factory workshop manual. Call Helm Publishing at 1-800-782-4356, or order it from MazdaTrix.

Before you attempt any of the fixes in this document, you should have the following tools at your disposal: screwdrivers (assorted Phillips and flathead sizes, you will need stubby screwdrivers as well, although a power screwdriver bit in a socket wrench will work), Socket Set and wrenches (you will need most of the metric sizes, 7mm (alternator ground nut) up to 22mm (lock nut for belt pulley), wrenches from 10mm (almost everything on the car) up to 19mm (exhaust stud nuts), soldering tools (Weller self-adjusting with microelectronics tip preferred, but a radio shack will do; Radio Shack metallic blue desoldering tool preferred, or generic desoldering bulb; 24 gauge fine solder preferred, generic solder will do; Panavise soldering bench vice w/circuit board holder makes the job MUCH easier, but you can just lay the boards flat on your workbench), various expletives of both common and obscure etymology, and some wire cutters (Craftsman, of course).

Section I

Second Generation RX-7 Problem Categories

Electrical

Cold solder points in CPU

• Affects horn, interior lighting, alarm system, clock/idiot light function

Cold solder points in Clock/IdiotLight module

• Affects clock and warning lights (may flicker or come on for no reason)

Cold solder points and/or blown transistors in Logicon (The climate control unit)

• Fan may blow intermittently or not at all, vent positions may be stuck, heater or A/C may not function

3800 RPM Hesitation

• Hesitation in acceleration of vehicle at ~3800 RPM

Shift up light malfunction

• Shift up light may come on in fifth gear

Light Switch Failure

• Light switch will stop functioning, may smoke and burn

Wiper Switch Failure

• Wipers will not return to correct position, switch will not work in all positions

Mechanical

Seat Adjust Mechanism failure/jamming

Power Antenna failure

Parking Brake cable failure/seizure

Exterior door handle failure

Sticking sunroof

Worn out shift lever bushings

Body

Rusting exterior window trim

Cracked/Faded plastic Turbo hoodscoop

Electrical

Rusted out catalytic converter shield

Rusted out mufflers

Section II

How to fix your broken Rotary Rocket

CPU Cold Solder points fix ( David Disney)

NOTES:

A) Its a good idea to disconnect your battery when doing any kind of electrical work on your car.

B) When resoldering these circuitboards, don't use a mega-huge, three million watt soldering iron. You'll just end up making a mess. The usual five dollar Radio Shack soldering irons work just fine. Also, if you have never soldered before, you'd better get some practice before you delve into your beloved Rx-7's CPU. It will help to have either a solder suction pump or a solder wick.

Here We go!

1) Remove the Driver's Side Kickrail

Its the long plastic piece that mounts immediately below the door (See Figure 1). After removing all of the screws in the kickrail (there are four or five), you must pop the kickrail up, away from the vehicle. There are several metal clips under the kickrail that hold it down, so you will have to provide a pretty good amount of upward pressure, but be careful that you don't pull too hard on either end of the rail or it could break. I haven't broken one yet (they seem to be pretty tough), but I'm sure it can happen.

(FIGURE 1)

2) Remove Plastic Side Panel

Take a look at the plastic side panel on the left side of the driver's footwell (Figure 2). You will have to use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the three plastic inserts that hold the panel in. Just pull 'em out. Then move the panel out of your way.

(FIGURE 2)

3) Unplug the CPU Wiring Connectors

Now you should be able to see the CPU. Its the rectangular box that has a big wiring harness plugged into the front of it. Unplug the 'big wiring harness' I just mentioned.

4) Remove the CPU Restraints

Now you're gonna need a 10mm socket and a short extension. A ratchet would be a good idea also (unless you have really strong fingers). At the top of the CPU is the nut that holds it in. Remove the nut.

5) Remove the CPU

Now you should be able to tilt the top of the CPU towards the passenger's side of the car while pulling upward on it. The CPU should pop right out. Notice how the protrusion on the bottom of the CPU fits into a little socket in the car. You'll need to realize how it fits when you put the CPU back in. There are also a couple more wiring harness connectors on the bottom of the CPU, unplug these also.

6) Rejoice

Now you have the CPU out of the car (Figure 3). Take it inside and plug up your soldering iron.

(FIGURE 3)

7) Start Taking it Apart

There are two small screws on the outside of the CPU case. One is on the bottom and the other is on the back. Remove these screws.

8) Remove the CPU Case

Now you will have to take a small screwdriver and pry the back lid off the CPU case. Also pry the bottom of the case off. You will have to be very careful and patient so that you don't break the case. After getting these covers off, you can remove the circuit boards from the case.

9) Resolder the Beastie

Take a close look at all the solder points on all three of the circuit boards. It would be wise to resolder all of them. However, if you're in a hurry you can just resolder the areas where the spade connectors for the wiring harness plugs are located. These are easy to recognize because of the copper spade connectors (Figure 4) on the component side of the board and the larger solder points (Figure 5) on the other side of the board. These solder points seem to be the main cause of trouble because they are under the most stress from the weight of the wiring harness bouncing around on them. They're almost always cracked and should get most of your attention.

(FIGURE 4) (FIGURE 5)

10) Put it Back Together

What is it all the shop manuals say? Oh yeah, installation is the reverse of removal. Just put everything back together and you should be in great shape.

3800 RPM Hesitation Fix (Dana Sullivan)

_____--_____
--------------------
| ------ | ------- |
--------------------
| ------ | ------- |
--------------------

This is supposed to look like the plug that connects to your boost sensor. Take the plug that has a brown (upper left) wire leading into it and run a ground from it to bare metal, try the radiator filler neck.

1) Locate the boost sensor on the front of the passenger's side strut tower. Note: There is a vacuum line running from the sensor to the side of the engine block.

2) Disconnect the 4­wire 'gang plug' from the sensor.

3) Locate the upper left wire. Refer to diagram.

4) Take a very small flathead screwdriver and insert it into the back of the plug on top of the wire. You should be able to raise a small flap of plastic allowing the brown wire with it's crimped connector still attached to be removed from the gang plug.

5) Take a 12" piece of thin gauge wire and solder one end to the connector where it is crimped around the brown wire.

6) Insert the crimped connector with the new wire attached back in the gang plug.

7) Loosen one of the bolts that holds the radiator cap housing to the filler neck. Strip ¾" of wire off the end of the ground wire your just soldered and wrap it around the loose bolt. Tighten bolt.

8) Plug gang plug back into boost sensor

EDITOR's NOTE: This fix is NOT guaranteed, it seems to have about a 50% chance of solving your problem. It does NOT work on my 1987 Sport, but others have had success with it. I personally do not think this is the cause of the problem. I believe, partially because it worsens in low temperatures, that it has to do with wear on one or more other components, or a programming error in the engine management computer. I happen to know of one 1987 GXL of a newer build date than mine which does not suffer from this problem. I believe that the problem may be caused by progressive failure of the exhaust system. I think that as the exhaust gets older and the front cats start to disintegrate into the main cat backpressure increases, causing the ports to open early or late. When I replaced the cats on my car with a downpipe and presilencer from MazdaTrix the problem promptly vanished.

Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light (Tuck)

Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.

Cold Solder points in the Logicon (Mike Mario)

I have repaired my logicon because my heater didn't maintain the correct temp. It would stay hot for a while and then the air mix motor would move the vent settings to the cold position. It would generally stay in that position. There is also another well known problem with the air mix adjust motors. They were manufactured with an inappropriate lubricant, which causes the motor to seize in low temperature environments. This can burn out the drive transistors in the logicon and possibly the motor itself. As a rule, if you took your car to the dealer because of logicon problems they replaced the air mix motor whether you liked or not.

My air mix motor was not the problem in my case, I even took the logicon out and tracked down the drive transistors and replace them to no avail.

To repair the logicon, all the solder joints need to be resoldered. There are 3 circuit boards in the logicon, a large main one, one behind the front panel switches and lights and one in a small separate box attached to the outside.

The problem in repairing the logicon is not the actual resoldering but rather getting the logicon out of the dash. It is fairly straightforward to take the logicon apart and get at the circuit boards.

To take the logicon out of the car, you first need to take the cover off the center cockpit console. First pop up the cover around the shifter, this is done by prying it up from the side toward the hand brake. This exposes 2 screws under the ash tray. Remove these screws and then remove two more screws at the very top of the trim panel.

The logicon is held in place with 4 screws two on each side. There are three connectors which need to be removed, two are connectors that plug into the back of the logicon and are reasonably easy to remove. The third is the big problem.

The third connector is at the end of an 18" cable which comes out from the logicon itself (why they did this I'll never figure out) it snakes up into the dash and disappears. It ends at a connector which is where the windshield meets the dash behind the clock/light module. There is a metal plate running the length of the dash along the window, you need to remove this plate to get at the connector.

To remove the plate (while minimizing the possibility of damaging the trim pieces) requires that you remove much of the trim around the front window. Start at the top and remove the side molding on one side of the window (you will need to remove the center trim piece on top of the window to do this easily). Now you can lift out the metal plate which contains the defrost vents and spans the dash from window pillar to window pillar. It is fastened down with a screw at the center which is covered by a small square plastic cover (which is extremely difficult to get off without breaking), and a number of strong snap in metal clips. After removing the screw the rest of the plate pops off. You will have to carefully maneuver the plate to get it out once it is unscrewed and unsnapped.

Now you can disconnect the connector and pull out the logicon. The cable going the connector is held in place by a metal strap in the middle of the dash, you may be able to get at the strap to bend it up from the opening made by the metal plate. I originally loosened the strap from below as I was removing the air mix motor.

Remove the logicon from the dash while carefully snaking the long cable out from behind the dash. Once you have done this it is a fairly straightforward process to disassemble the logicon and resolder the points inside. Almost all of them will be bad so plan on spending some time on this. You may want to source some replacement light bulbs for the lighting instruments in the faceplate (not the LED's in the sliders) so that you can replace them while the unit is out. When you are done, you may want to spray the boards with a clear enamel which is sold at electronics stores for sealing circuit boards. Reinstallation is much easier than getting it out, and once you have removed the unit once, subsequent removal is much easier.

NOTE: If your Logicon fries and you decide to pull it and fix it yourself, use a transistor checker. If the transistors appear to be fried then you might want to consider getting a new adjust motor before you replace/fix it. MazdaTrix stocks rebuilt logicons for $231 the part number is "LOGICON" and MazdaTrix can be reached at (310)­426­7960. I believe they can also sell you the bulbs inside the unit.

Intermittent operation of the passenger side speaker (Victor Bradley)

My 86 RX-7 had a Front right speaker that would go dead every now & then. When I whacked it with my palm, it would work for awhile, until I went over my next bump. Now I know what you're thinkin... cold solder joint, right? WRONG! Bad relay inside the speaker box. Here's how to fix it. Remove the speaker box, unplug it. (Make sure the radio is turned off first.) Open it up and look for a little black plastic box on the circuit board that's located just inside the rear cover just inside the box from where the main connector plug is. This little plastic box is a relay. The top pulls right off. Now you can watch the stupid thing turn on and off when you flex the circuit board. If it does as I've described, the fix is simple: just jam a short piece of a toothpick, or any other small insulator into the mechanism so that the relay points stay closed. This fixed it for me.

Catalytic converter shield fix (Tuck)

In my case, the front hangar has rusted out, and the shield was making a nice road kill scoop/gravel plow. Go to your local Trak Auto (or similar store, such as Auto Zone), and ask for a catalytic converter hangar. They sell them for a few bucks and they are perfectly adequate for the job. It took me all of 8 minutes to install two in my car (one on the front and one on the rear of my cat shield). The vast majority of this time was spent jacking the car up. All you have to do is wrap it around the cat and the shield, pull it tight and then screw it down. This is a much better fix than getting new parts from Mazda, as you have to buy a whole new catalytic converter to get the hangars ($900).

Clunk in rear suspension (Jay Harrell)

Replace the rear control links.

This problem is caused by weak synchros in the Mazda 5 speed, it appears that the 5 speed used in the non turbo cars is approaching it's power handling limit. To completely solve this problem requires a transmission rebuild, but if you don't want to spend the money or the time, you can at least smooth things out a little bit by filling your transmission with RedLine synthetic lubricant. Some people have expressed concerns over using the RedLine MTL because it has a lower viscosity than the stock lubricant. It's your call as to whether you use RedLine synthetics or their MTL. If that doesn't do it, get your transmission rebuilt, be aware that parts costs in this case can easily exceed labor costs. You can contact RedLine at 1­800­624­7958.

Broken outside door handles (Ken)

Your best bet is to acquire a new handle from MazdaTrix, or from a junk yards and getting it painted to match by a competent auto body shop. Otherwise you may be able to fix the problem by opening up the door and using JBweld, or liquid weld, or whichever is your favorite metal repair chemical to fix any cracking in the metal of the handle frame.

Rusted exterior window trim (Chuck Ortt)

Snap off the plastic trim piece around the manual mirror adjust lever. Unscrew the mirror mounting screws. Pop out the original piece and replace with the Mazda replacement part (which is plastic). Put it all back together.

Broken driver's side seat adjust lever

This problem involves the plastic trim piece on the door side of the seat. This trim piece comes loose and can jam the adjust lever. The lever itself is a metal piece with a hole in it. There is a metal post on the seat adjust mechanism that is supposed to go into this hole. The retaining clip on the post fails and the lever pops off the post, causing the seat to continuously spring forward (and pushes the plastic mechanism cover out). If you remove the spring on the lever, then the seat will no longer pop forward, but the lever then has to be pushed back down manually to lock the seat in place. The only other solution is to replace the retaining clip and trim piece, or to replace the rails and adjust mechanism on the seat.

Failing light switch:

Replace the light switch assembly, this is due to a non­correctable mechanical failure in the switch. Please closely examine the plugs on the light switch, as this problem is usually accompanied by high voltages that melt the switch, plugs, and sometimes the wiring harness. If this is the case, replace the light switch wiring harness as well. The wiring harness and switch are available from MazdaTrix. The part number for the switch is "66­1700­FB01" and the harness is "66­1670­FB01". The switch is $225.30 and the harness is $65.75. MazdaTrix can be reached at (310)­426­7960. These parts can usually be acquired very cheaply at a junk yard. You can help prevent this problem from afflicting your car by disassembling the unit and resoldering everything inside it prior to failure.

Failing Wiper Switch (Gary)

First remove the binnacle that contains the switches, unplug the 3 large connectors, and take the unit in to the workbench for a close examination. Remove the wiper switch module by pulling the knobs off and unscrewing the 2 screws that secure the module to the plastic binnacle. Then lever off the white plastic cover over the circuit board (it is secured by tongues into the black plastic case). Then desolder the rows of pins that secure the circuit board to the three switches in the module and remove the circuit board. Now, lever the cover off the relay nearest the wiper switch end (careful, these relays are fragile inside) and examine the open contact, it may appear burnt. Dressed it up with some fine emery paper, gently push the outer fixed contact in a little to close the gap a fraction, and reassemble the whole mess. Viola! Your problem is solved.

The tricky part is identifying the pins of the switches that need to be desoldered to get the PCB out. They are all along the "inside" edge, in two rows clustered in three groups (about 14 contacts in all). One of the wiper switch contacts is particularly difficult to desolder, as there are two pins shoved through the same hole. Use Dri-wick (solderwick) or similar, unless you have desoldering equipment at hand. Use only a hot enough iron to do the job, too much heat will cause the tracks to lift off.

The switch is, of course, also available from MazdaTrix, and can be purchased very cheaply at a junk yard.

Replacing worn out shift lever bushings (David Disney and Jamey Moss)

The following info is for 86-88 Sevens, but the process is almost identical for the 1st gens, but some of the part numbers/bushings are different.

First, obtain some new shifter bushings. I'd suggest getting them from MazdaTrix, as your local dealer will charge you 2-3 times more, depending on the day of the week... and they won't have them in stock either. Anyway, the MazdaTrix part numbers are as follows:

99-1780-M505 ~$6.50

17-4810-8AF1 ~$6.50

1-800-426-TRIX

Next, you have to get to the old bushings:

1. NOTE! You won't use all of the stuff that comes in the previously listed parts kits. Mazda apparently decided not to make a single 86-88 bushing kit, so you have to 'make your own' from these two kits. The parts to use are as follows:
2. Keep the blue bushing, the white bushing, one spring (the round metal piece with clips), and one gasket. Next, put the blue bushing on over the shifter with the rounded side of the bushing next to the large ball part of the shifter. Clip the spring to the white bushing (it only goes on one way), then put the white bushing, spring-side down, into the hole where the shifter goes, aligning the grooved part of the bushing with the aligning pin in the hole.

Section III

Tuning and Performance

Ignition Timing(Dave Henning)

I did the timing on my '86 sport recently. I didn't use a tachometer for 2 reasons:

1) I could not just go buy a tachometer and expect it to give a proper reading since they are all set for cylinder types of engines.

2) The tachometer on the dash seems to work just fine.

The timing only requires a light with the inductive coil on it. It should state this on the box and can be purchased at WalMart or store of your choice for <$30. Don't get the expensive ones with the dials they aren't worth it.

Hook the inductive coil around the leading wire to the front rotor. Then connect the other wires to the battery and ground. Loosen the bolt to the crank angle sensor. It is brass so be careful not to strip it. Do not remove the screws on the sensor plate, it does no good.

Turn on the engine and let it warm up to idle. Pull the trigger of the light and point at the pulley at the base of the crank angle sensor. There are 2 marks, yellow for leading and red for trailing. They may be difficult to distinguish. The timing light should be hooked close to the coil and not the spark plug.

There is a pin above the pulley to match the yellow mark to. If you cannot tell which color is which just turn the crank angle sensor (it pivots after you loosen that bolt) and get one of the marks set with the pin.

Disconnect the inductive coil and re-connect it to the trailing wire for the front rotor. Point the gun at the pulley again and squeeze the trigger. If there is a mark (should be red but maybe can't tell) lined up with the pin then you are done and should shut off the engine and tighten the bolt to the crank angle sensor. If the mark is _way_ off then you confused the colors and should redo the leading timing until the other mark is lined up properly, then redo the trailing timing.

If you cannot reconcile the marks to both line up properly, make sure you are using the proper wires. They are marked L1 and T1. If they still do not line up then ask more people on the list for advanced help. BE CAREFUL!!!! While adjusting the sensor the engine is at operating temps. This may cause you to want to use a rag to turn it and not burn your hand. However, the fan and some belts are in very tight proximity and could hurt you if you don't take care.

The Haynes manual pictures should point out the sensor. If you aren't sure where it is, it is on the driver's side and behind where the a/c and power steering (if you have it) pumps are located. It has a black cover with 2 screws on top. It is about 2-3" in diameter on top and smaller as it joins the engine. Good Luck, it takes about 1/2 hour even while you are learning. It took me more time to go buy the light.

Making a Throttle Position Sensor Test Lamp(Dana Sullivan)

You can make a test light yourself fairly easily. Take two turn signal bulbs or similar type lights and solder a piece of wire between the two cans of the bulbs. Take another length of wire and solder one end to one can. This wire is your common ground wire, this will attach to the Black w/white stripe wire (ground) on the gang plug.

There should be 2 wires running out of the two remaining connectors. Solder a piece of wire to the + terminal of each light bulb and run one each to the two remaining connectors.

Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment (Glenn Heidel)

1) Warm up the engine, then stop it.

2) Connect the checker lamp to the check connector (green).

3) Turn the ignition switch on and check whether one of the lamp illuminates.

4) If both lamps illuminate or if neither does, turn the throttle sensor adjust screw until one of the lamps illuminates.

a) If both lamps illuminate turn the adjust screw clockwise.

b) If both lamps do not illuminate turn the adjust screw counterclockwise.

I'd just like to add that I found the best results by turning the screw counter-clockwise until I obtained condition 4)a) above (both lit) then I turned the screw clockwise until one light went out + 1/8 turn of the screw. This assures the throttle is as close to actually closed as possible when the sensor indicates that condition to the computer. (Thus giving you the smoothest transition on/off idle.)

Sensor Diagram:

----

| |(A) (A) = Top

| -- | (B) = Bottom Right

- - (C) = Bottom Left

| |

(C)| | | |(B)

| |

--------

Note you can also use two DC volt meters; connect the positive leads of both volt meters to terminal A. Connect the negative terminal of one meter to C and the negative of the other to B. If you have basic point type probes on your volt meters, they will slide nicely into the connector and you don't need to build the test lamps. Put them into the position for measuring DC 12 volts (...or more) and away you go.

Adding an Aftermarket Alarm system (Shane Callaghan)

For those of you that have the Mazda security system, installing a quality aftermarket system is a simple job and effective protection. Disclaimer: The following is based on the factory system in my '88 Turbo, and may not be directly transferable to other models/years; confirm all connections, and don't call me if you fry something!

A few words on selecting an alarm:

There are many aftermarket alarm manufacturers; I won't presume to tell you which to choose, but a reasonably secure system requires some basic features. Consider the available security and convenience features, and pick one that meets your needs. Some features can be easily added, so when selecting an alarm, concentrate on the things you can't add (extra transmitter channels, pre-warning circuit, code jumping, anti-carjacking, etc.). One thing to consider: since 2nd gens do not have a lock motor in the driver's door, a power lock interface requires an external motor.

When you have chosen your alarm, much of the basic wiring can be done from the factory harness to the Mazda alarm. I would recommend replacing the Mazda unit with the aftermarket alarm - I ran parallel systems for awhile, but if the aftermarket system is designed and installed properly, the factory system is not necessary; it will be more likely to give you problems than protection.

Before tearing out the factory box, think about where you want the valet switch, LED, and glass break microphone. I find the LED works just fine in the blank panel next to the factory light (unless you have a convertible), which is also a good place for the glass break microphone, or you could use the factory light itself. The advantage to using a different LED is that a thief who knows the car will realize it has an aftermarket alarm, and may look elsewhere. If you have a convertible, you could replace the factory light with a blank panel (about $2 from Mazda). As for the valet switch, look for a place that is relatively easy to access, but not easy for a thief to find (although the valet switch will not compromise the alarm on most systems). There are some things about my system that I won't reveal - this is secret #1. Route both wires to the glove box area when both are mounted.

The factory alarm brain is screwed to the back of the panel beneath the glove box (which also houses 4" speaker and air vent). First, remove the glove box; there are 7 screws, three along the hinge, one on each side, and two on the catch. Pull the box straight out, reach behind and twist the light to remove. Remove the 5 screws holding the lower panel in place, and slide it towards the floor to remove. There are two air ducts attached to the panel; remove carefully to avoid cracking the plastic. The alarm brain is the steel box mounted to the left of the panel. Unplug the alarm connector (next to the recirc. air intake) and the speaker connector (if equipped), and remove the panel.

If you don't anticipate reinstalling the factory alarm (or if you don't mind reconnecting the cables), cut the harness close to the alarm box. This will allow you to wire the free ends to the aftermarket harness, and plug directly into the factory harness. Remove the factory alarm from the panel, and find a place to mount the aftermarket box. If it is small enough, it will attach (using wire ties) to the wiring harnesses and brackets at the top of the dash, just behind the windshield. This way, if a thief knows the car and gets this far, he won't find the box in the usual place. Make sure any DIP switches are set correctly, and all harnesses are connected to the brain before mounting it permanently. You will want to complete the connections and test everything before mounting permanently, so just hang it approximately where it will go for now.

Next step is installing the siren. You will want a location that provides good volume, keeps the siren where it won't gather water, and is not easily visible or accessible from under the hood (secret #2). Route the wire in or along the factory harnesses so that it is not visible. The siren wire should come through the firewall at the same location as the factory harness; I don't remember how difficult this was on the RX-7, but it is usually one of the least enjoyable parts of the job. If you don't intend to use the auxiliary alarm horn, you could use that wire (there is a separate horn for the alarm in the centre of the nose, to the left of the relays - you can also use the main horn for the alarm). If necessary, run the siren wire from the inside of the firewall along the dash to the glove box area.

You may want to add an interior piezo siren, or pain generator. This can be wired in parallel with the main siren, and will make it very unpleasant to be inside the car while the alarm is sounding. Mount the siren so it is loud, but not easily disabled by a thief (secret #3).

Now you can complete the wiring. Using the factory harness, and assuming your alarm has the appropriate features, you can easily wire a starter disable, flashing headlights (through the lenses) and hazard lights, pulsing horn, and gain access to the trigger for the doors, hood, and hatch. A flashing light output from your alarm is required for the lights and horn, but the relays are already in place. Wire your alarm as follows (colour diagram in Word) Be sure to use diodes to isolate current from the door, hood, and hatch triggers:

Color Code:

B Black L Blue O Orange

Br Brown W White R Red

G Green LG Light Green Y Yellow

If you intend to use a fuel cut relay (highly recommended), you can tap into the factory harness beside the dead pedal, next to the fuse box. The bottom of the three plugs contains the fuel pump wires. There are two blue wires which join shortly after the plug; you need to cut and switch both - either one will run the fuel pump. Wire the relay as follows:

You can also add additional flashing lights (brake, dome), additional siren(s), remote window roll-up and sunroof close, remote start, etc.

Adding Cruise Control (Ken)

To install cruise where there is none, you really only need three things.

1. actuator motor
2. control unit

The pieces I speak of are Mazda originals, taken from a junkyard, not new parts or some aftermarket contraption. l of the wiring for these parts exists on the car already. It is a simple "plug and play" procedure to hook everything up.

The actuator is located on top of the cold-start-assist reservoir. When you get all the parts from the junkyard, be sure to get the bracket that mounts the actuator to the firewall (non-cruise equipped cars do not have the bracket). I tapped a capped-off vacuum port above the exhaust manifold as a source for the actuator (after all the scrounging, I have come to believe that turbo cars use an all-electric actuator). Manifold vacuum is what pulls on the throttle cable to manipulate the throttle. The logic unit directs the actuator in this operation. Four wires attach to the actuator, in a plug which is already there and waiting for installation.

The control unit is attached to the kick panel next to the "cpu." (close to the "dead" pedal), two nuts are needed to hold it in place on the studs which are already there. A thirteen-wire connector is plugged in to the control unit. One of these wires goes to a speed sensor on the back of the speedometer, but it is already hooked up at that end.

The switch goes in the pod surrounding the gauges, next to the wiper switch (where the "blank" spot is). Contrary to what I have heard others say on the net, you DO NOT have to remove the steering wheel to get this piece off. Again, the wires are there and waiting.

I took switches for the brake and clutch pedals, although I discovered after installation that my brake switch is already hooked up. I haven't looked into the clutch switch yet (and doubt if I will), no one that drives my car is crazy enough to push in the clutch with the cruise on. :-)

I learned more about the way the control unit operates the actuator; anyone interested can drop me a line. All the parts cost me a total of $26.00 (!) with the exception of a new throttle cable I had to buy from Mazda ($31.00) because the people that pulled the motor from the RX-7 in the junkyard cut the cable.

Removing the turbo unit from a Turbo II (Rob Rike)

Installing the Turbo unit in a Turbo II (Rob Rike)

5. Go ahead and connect the oil lines and other fittings to the turbo (I used a little liquid Teflon tape on the oil pipe fitting)

6. Re-connect the hoses that you removed and go ahead and refill and air bleed the radiator.

7. Go underneath, reconnect the exhaust pipe to the pre-cat and re-attach all of the system hangars.

8. Double check all of your fittings and make sure all hoses are tight. Watch that coolant pipe going to the turbo for leaks.

9. Since the Turbo has probably been removed to be rebuilt, I would go ahead and remove the EGI fuse and crank the engine over for several seconds to get some oil into the turbo bearings. You don't want to start it up and have that fast idle thing kick it up to 3,000 rpm's on dry bearings. For that matter, when you do start it you may want to leave it in first to prevent the fast idle.

10. Once the engine starts to warm up a bit the turbo will probably start to smoke under the hood. I am told this is normal as new oil used during rebuilding burns off the housings and as the solvents heat up and burn off. Just keep an eye out for oil and coolant leaks and let it idle for about 15 minutes before driving it. This way you can be sure the bearings have plenty of oil.

Aftermarket Performance

Non-Turbo Performance Modifications-Street Legal

Exhaust

86-88

Racing Beat "PowerPulse" high performance muffler system, >5 hp.

HKS Sport Exhaust, 8hp

Mariah (Design Energy)-HKS "Cat-Back" Exhaust, 15% increase=21.9hp

MazdaTrix Exhaust, "Noticeable" (HKS?)

89-92

Racing Beat "PowerPulse" high performance muffler system, >5hp.

HKS Sport Exhaust, 8hp

Mariah (Design Energy) HKS "Cat-Back" Exhaust, 15% increase=24hp

MazdaTrix Exhaust, "Noticeable" (HKS?)

Intake

86-92

HKS "PowerFlow", 9hp

Mariah (Design Energy) Nelson/Paxton Supercharger, 50% increase=73hp (86-88)/80hp (89-92)

Other

Mariah (Design Energy) Electric fan/shroud package, up to 12hp.

Non-Turbo Performance Modifications-Off Road Only

Exhaust

MazdaTrix Dual PreSilencer Exhaust, ~30@Wheel horsepower

Racing Beat PowerPulse Presilencer (replaces Catalytic Converters), 18hp (with stock cat-back exhaust)

Intake

Cartech/Mariah turbo Pkg., up to 129hp (86-88)/up to 115hp (89-92)

Mikuni 44mm Side Draft carburetor

Weber 48mm/51mm Down Draft carburetor

MazdaTrix supercharger Kit, up to 154hp

Second Generation RX-7 Turbo II Performance Upgrades (Trey Cobb)

The layout of this list is as follows: Upgrades are ordered roughly in the order that you should do you upgrades. All upgrades can be done seperately but often, one part will not do much for you unless you install the next part that complements it. These groups of parts are commonly refered to as "Stages". HKS has probably the best organization of stages and even if you don't use all their parts, you can get the general idea of how you should upgrade.

A few things everyone must think of when they want to upgrade their RX-7 is:

Remember, these part's manufactures are businesses, and a business's main function is to make money so they will tell you close to anything for you to buy their product. Luckily there are some reputable companies out there, and the RX-7 producers are on the most part reputable.

Now, on to the parts. After talking hours with many different RX-7 mechanics, this is a general "Stage" list for upgrading it. This takes into consideration that your car is basically in "as-new" Stock condition. This means that everything from the clutch to the fuel injectors are working close to how they did off the show-room floor. If anything is in question, inspect and/or replace it.

Stages for Upgrading

Instead of the generic, "do this to support x amount of boost", I going to inject my personal opinion and findings here. I own an '87 Turbo that began as a slightly modified car, and has transformed into a 450 horsepower monster. So I know what is involved with all stages of modifications. The same philosophy I learned in tinkering with my Turbo, can also apply to your non-turbo.

The first step, opening up the exhaust will yeild the highest percentage gain on Mazda rotaries. This is due to Mazda making the exhaust systems very restrictive. This helped quiet the harsh rotary exhaust noise, and to keep the emissions under control. There are countless exhaust systems to choose from. But you must consider whether or not the car will need to meet emissions levels testing or not. If you car will likely have to take an emissions test, then keep your main catalytic convertor. The pre-cat can still be gotten rid of, since it only helps for emissions during the car's warmup. If you don't have to take emission, then that opens things up a lot. On a turbo car, the bigger the better. Backpressure only hurts on a turbo, whereas on a non-turbo, you need to keep some backpressure to ensure low end torque. Also on a non-turbo, the 6 ports will not open correctly without some backpressure. Mufflers supply some backpressure, but the majority of it is supplied by the restrictive catalytic convertors. Consider these factors when choosing an exhaust system.

Next is the intake system. This is another big source of restriction. Basically, the engine is just a big air pump. The more efficiently it can pump air, the more power it can make. By removing the stock airbox, and replacing it with a cone style air intake, you are removing a big restriction, and allowing the engine to pump more air. One thing to consider, is that even though the engine will pump more air with one of these filters, the air will be hotter than before. This is due to the air coming from under the hood, instead of from outside. Hot air makes less power because it is less dense. It is also more damaging to the engine obviously, because more heat increases the chance of detonation - the number one cause of blown engines in rotary engines. The way to combat this is to find a way to get cold outside air into your cone style filter. There is not 'bolt-on' way to do this, instead it takes some thought. You can cut a hole in the front firewall, under the right headlight. Or even mount the filter ahead of the front firewall, like I did. This however, takes some fabrication. But the benefits are many and well worth the work. Also in the intake system, you could consider your carbuerator and or turbocharger/supercharger. This is something that is beyond the scope of a FAQ. However, if you are consider upgrading either of these, e-mail me with your questions. I'll do the best I can to help.

Possibly the source of the most opinions and speculation is what to do to modify the fuel and ignition systems. There are bolt on systems to control fuel such as the HKS F-CON and the Field SFC. These are commonly known as 'piggy-back' computers because the essentially just suppliment the stock ECU. However, these systems are very limited in scope. For someone who is running the stock turbo, or in a non-turbo application, these sytems can work very well. But for someone who has a large aftermarket turbo like my T04B, or someone with a supercharger, these just don't cut it. For these applications, you need to look at systems like the Wolf 3D or the Haltech. Wolf EMS and Haltech make what is called a 'stand-alone' system. They replace all the stock ECU and control all engine functions with their own software and coding. The main benefit to stand-alone computers is their adjustability. When you start getting wild with your modifications, such as going for 350 horsepower or more, you need this amount of adjustability. Along with this flexability also comes complexity. Stand-alone systems are not easy to hook up and tune, they take a fair amount of knowledge. But if you are comfortable with taking on this task, or have someone near you who is, I highly reccomend going this route. You will always be able to adjust for any further modifications or changes to the car, and will extract maximum horsepower.

1) Exhaust

Company Name	Type of System	Claimed HP	Cost	CA Legal
HKS	Cat-Back 50mm	+18HP?	464.95	Yes
HKS	Cat-Back 60mm		519.95	Yes
Racing Beat	Turbo Back	+58HP	560.00	No
Trust	Cat-Back 50mm		547.20	Yes
Trust	Cat-Back 60mm		547.20	Yes
Trust	Cat-Back 70mm	+40HP?	585.20	Yes
Turbo Tuf	Cat-Back	+30HP	709.00	Yes

2) Intake

Company Name	Type of System	Claimed HP	Cost	Type
AEM	TurboFlo	~+15HP	163.00	Cloth
K&N (86-92)	FilterCharger	~5HP	48.54	Cloth
HKS (86-88)	PowerFlow	+10-15HP	173.74	Foam
HKS (89-92)	PowerFlow	+10-15HP	158.97	Foam
HKS (86-88)	Super PowerFlow
HKS (89-92)	Super PowerFlow
Trust	Airnix	+15HP		Foam

3) Fuel Controller

Company Name	Type of System	Years	Cost	CA Legal
Electromotive	TEC-II	86-92	1300.00	Yes
HKS	PFC F-Con	86-92	895.95	Yes
Motec		86-92	~2000.00+	No
PROM [ECU]	Reprogramming	86-92	~700.00	Yes
Trust	Rebic II	86-92		Yes
Racing Beat	Fuel Cut Switch	86-88	91.50	Yes
Racing Beat	Fuel Cut Switch	89-92	96.00	Yes

4) Intercooler

Company Name	Type of System	Claimed HP	Cost	CA Legal
CarTech	Dual Cooled			Yes
HKS (86-88)	Front Mount		1573.83	Yes
HKS (89-92)	Front Mount		1573.83	Yes
Tri-Point	Front Mount		1050.00	Yes
Trust	Front Mount			Yes

5) Turbo Upgrades

Company Name	Type of System	Claimed HP	Cost	CA Legal
Trust				Yes
HKS
CarTech	RotoMaster
Blitz
Turbonetics

6) Fuel Pump

Company Name	Type of System	Gal/Hr.	Cost	CA Legal
Mazda	Cosmo Pump		389.00
Trust
Holley	255 lph pump		199.00
Walbro	255 lph pump		140.00

7) Fuel Injectors

Company Name	Cost	CA Legal
Turbo Performance
RC Engineering

8) Turbo Boost Controllers

Company Name	Type of System	Gauge Inc.	Cost	CA Legal
HKS	EVC I	NO	655.58	Yes
Racing Beat	Manual Boost	YES	242.19	Yes
Trust	TVVC	NO		Yes
Turbonetics	Manual Boost	NO	60.00	YES

9) Ignition Components

Company Name	Type of System	Notes	Cost	CA Legal
NGK	BUR6EQ (L)	Hot	11.32	Yes
NGK	BUR8EQ (T)	Hot	11.32	Yes
NGK	BUR6EQP (L)	Hot,Plat.	18.42	Yes
NGK	BUR8EQP (T)	Hot,Plat.	18.43	Yes
NGK	BUR7EQ (L)	Cold	7.55	Yes
NGK	BUR9EQ (T)	Cold	7.55	Yes
NGK	BUR7EQP (L)	Cold,Plat.	13.17	Yes
NGK	BUR9EQP (T)	Cold,Plat.	13.17	Yes
Magnacor	8.5mm Wires	Street	52.56	Yes
Magnacor	10mm Wires	Street	62.14	Yes
Ultra Ign.	8mm Sil. Wires	Street	86.08	Yes
Ultra Ign	8mm Sil. Wires	Race	75.16	Yes
Crane	HI-6	Ignition Amplifier	160.00	Yes

10) Blow Off Valves

Company Name	Type of System	Part #	Cost	CA Legal
GReddy	Type "S" Kit	BVS-11007	215.00	Yes
HKS	Super Sequential		225.00	Yes
Blitz	Super Sound		195.00	Yes

11) Clutch/Pressure Plate Combos

Company Name	Name of System	Years	Type	Cost
CenterForce	Dual Friction	86-88	Both	496.02
CenterForce	Dual Friction	89-92	Both	461.15
Turbo Clutch	Kevlar	86-92	Both	399.02
Turbo Clutch	Carbonite	86-92	Both	419.00
Racing Beat	Street/Strip	86-92	Disc	105.20
Racing Beat	Street/Strip	86-92	Plate	280.00
Racing Beat	Street Race	86-92	Disc	113.00
Racing Beat	Full Race	86-92	Disc	89.00

12) Flywheels

CompanyName	TypeofSystem	Weight	Years	Cost
RacingBeat	Steel	18lbs	86-88	372.00
RacingBeat	Steel	18lbs	89-92	372.00
TriPoint	Aluminum	??	86-92

Please forward all comments, info, and corrections to:

Ryan Scott
12216 Spanish Trace Dr.
St Louis, MO 63043

Or E-Mail Ryan Scott

A Few random notes:

Turbo II production began in 86 but there are no 86 modeled cars, production ended in 91 but '91s were resold through 92 before the 3^rd gen. Debuted. The only MAIN difference is between the years 88-89. If you own a 87 Turbo II, you can NOT use a part stated as being for a 89-92 vehicle unless otherwise stated. The same holds true visa versa.

Section IV

Miscellaneous Ramblings

What is the deal with using synthetic oils in a rotary engine?

This seems to come up a lot. Net wisdom preaches that you shouldn't use a synthetic oil in your rotary is because the engine sprays some oil in with the fuel to lubricate the apex seals on the rotors. Synthetic oils do not combust fully, which leaves deposits between the seal and the rotor itself. This buildup prevents the seal from sliding like it should, which leads to premature seal wear and engine failure. Many people will tell you that they use synthetics all the time in their rotary and that it doesn't cause any problems at all. The fact of the matter is that synthetics don't make your engine run faster or better. They cost more, and you really should change them just as often. It is cheaper to run conventional oil. Synthetics are great in the differential and the transmission, just make sure that the differential fluid you use is the proper type or it will cause problems with some types of limited slip differentials. Use the RedLine oil in the transmission and the differential.

Now for brutal honesty. If you read through the catalogs from some of the engine tuners out there, like Racing Beat and MazdaTrix, you will see that they either recommend, or are careful not to condemn, the use of synthetics in the engine. While a new engine should always be broken in on a high quality mineral oil (Castrol GTX is the oil of choice according to net wisdom), in the long run, using a high quality synthetic oil, like Redline or Amsoil can help keep temperatures and wear down in the engine. Some claim that it can also significantly reduce carbon deposits on the rotors housings. Mazda Competition Parts recommends the use of synthetic oils in rotary engines once they are properly broken in.

For what it's worth, I use Castrol GTX in my car, and so far the oil has come out close to the same golden amber color that it went in.

What is the least expensive way to speed up my RX-7

First, try opening up the exhaust. Mazda made the stock exhaust small and restrictive in an effort to contain some of the rotary engines rather noxious emissions. Of course, this means that an aftermarket exhaust will free up lots of lost power. Especially for turbo models. Removing the catalytic converters alone can take close to a second off of 1/4 mile times. Other than exhaust, the cheapest way to speed up your 7 is to learn how to drive. Autocross regularly and try to take a performance driving school. Also, there are many books that can teach you the basics of high performance driving...read one.

How big can my wheels get?

With the stock offset, you can run up to 225/55 r16's in front, and 245/55 r16's in back. The car was available with 14, 15, and 16" wheels. The 16" wheels of off a Turbo II look great on a non­turbo, as well as being fairly inexpensive used. And as a small note, I thought I'd mention that if you have a white non-turbo RX-7, and you can find them, get the white wheels from a 10th anniversary edition RX-7, this is what I have on my car it really makes the car stand out.

Tire Size	Sidewalls	Rim	Total	Variance	Circum.	Deviation
205-55-16	22.55	40.64	63.19	0	198.52	0
215-50-16	21.50	40.64	62.14	-1.05	195.22	-1.66%
225-50-16	22.50	40.64	63.14	-0.05	198.36	-0.08%
235-50-16	23.50	40.64	64.14	+0.95	201.50	+1.50%
245-45-16	22.05	40.64	62.69	-0.50	196.95	-0.79%
205-50-17	20.50	43.18	63.68	+0.49	200.06	+0.78%
205-45-17	18.45	43.18	61.63	-1.56	193.62	-2.47%
215-45-17	19.35	43.18	62.53	-0.66	196.44	-1.05%
225-45-17	20.25	43.18	63.43	+0.24	199.27	+0.38%
235-40-17	18.80	43.18	61.98	-1.21	194.72	-1.91%
245-40-17	19.60	43.18	62.78	-0.41	197.23	-0.65%
255-40-17	20.40	43.18	63.58	+0.39	199.74	+0.61%
265-40-17	21.20	43.18	64.38	+1.19	202.26	+1.88%

Use all the chemicals according to directions written on them, and take your time going from one step to another. While following this process you can burn most of an afternoon without half trying.

Cooling System Flush and Fill (Shane Callaghan)

There is an easy, clean and effective way to completely flush and fill your cooling system. Prestone makes a nice flush and fill kit (~CDN$10) that requires nothing but a garden hose. It includes a drain hose and container, funnel adapter and hose clamps. Disconnect the top rad hose at the water pump housing (kit says cut it - don't), attach the drain hose to the pump outlet and insert in the container. Insert the funnel adapter into the open hose going to the rad, and fill with water. Bring the engine up to temperature and turn on the heater. When the thermostat opens, the old coolant is pumped into the container, and the water is drawn into the system. Keep the funnel full to avoid drawing air into the system; it helps to have two people - one to keep the funnel full, and one to make sure the drain hose stays where it is supposed to. When the drained fluid is clear, you can start adding coolant to the funnel. I wait a couple of minutes after the water is clear to make sure the system is well flushed. Add a full jug of Prestone (about a 50/50 mix), and shut the car off. Replace the hose, top off the rad and you're done. Easier and more effective than just draining the rad.

The TSB Title list

Year: 1986

Make: Mazda

Model: RX-7

Engine: 2RTR-1308cc 80

JUN 94 1. PARTIAL ENGINE AVAILABILITY (LONG BLOCK)
APR 94 2. A/C 0-RING REPLACEMENT
MAR 94 3. PARTIAL ENGINE (LONG BLOCK) AVAILABILITY
FEB 94 4. U00194 - 02/28/94
APR 93 5. PROPER PREPARATION FOR EMISSION INSPECTION TEST
JAN 93 6. FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER KIT AVAILABLE
DEC 92 7. AVAILABILITY OF REAR 3 POINT SEAT BELTS
NOV 92 8. PROOF OF EMISSIONS RECALL CORRECTION LABEL CALIF. VEHICLE
JUL 92 9. FUEL SYSTEM, MANUAL TRANSMISSION - MANUAL UPDATE
JUL 92 10. HARD SHIFT TO 2ND GEAR AFTER COLD START
APR 91 11. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT EXCHANGE PROGRAM
FEB 91 12. PREVENT DAMAGING ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL
DEC 90 13. RECEIVER/DRIER FUSE PLUG ELIMINATION
DEC 90 14. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNITS
AUG 90 15. EC-AT PROPER CONNECTION
JUL 90 16. PREVENT DAMAGING REAR OIL SEAL WHILE ASSEMBLING
JUN 90 17. CRUISE CONTROL WARNING
JUN 90 18. NOISE FROM REAR SUSPENSION DURING ACCELERATION OR DECELERATION
JUN 90 19. USE OF TIMING LIGHT ON DISTRIBUTOR-LESS IGNITION SYSTEM
APR 90 20. SPECIAL TOOLS MODIFICATION
MAR 90 21. HELM PROGRAM SERVICE COLLATERAL
FEB 90 22. RECONDITIONED ANTIFREEZE, NOT RECOMMENDED
DEC 89 23. CPU DAMAGE CAUSED BY WATER LEAKAGE
DEC 89 24. MISFIRE AND HESITATION OVER 6000 RPM
DEC 89 25. NOISE FROM THE WATER FLOW INSIDE THE HEATER UNIT
DEC 89 26. POWER ANTENNA TROUBLESHOOTING
DEC 89 27. VEHICLE DIFFICULT TO FUEL
NOV 89 28. REAR 3-POINT SEAT BELT INSTALLATION
JUL 89 29. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT PROGRAM
JUN 89 30. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DRIVEN PLATE PARTS CATALOG REVISION
JUN 89 31. HARD SHIFT IN LOW TEMPERATURE
MAY 89 32. AUDIO SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING
MAR 89 33. STATIC ELECTRICITY SHOCK
FEB 89 34. USE OF REGULAR UNLEADED GASOLINE
NOV 88 35. IMPROPER OPERATION OF POWER WINDOW REGULATOR (Ball Type)
NOV 88 36. MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY CHARGING & TESTING PROCEDURES
OCT 88 37. COLD ENGINE HARD TO START
SEP 88 38. USE OF CORPORATE LOGO
JUN 88 39. FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS, PAD, ETC.
MAY 88 40. EGI CONTROL UNIT & FUEL INJECTORS
MAY 88 41. NO. 2 PRE-CONVERTER BRACKET
APR 88 42. ROUGH IDLE
APR 88 43. AIR BLEED SOCKETS
APR 88 44. MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY
MAR 88 45. TRANSMISSION BEARINGS
FEB 88 46. SURGE OR STUMBLE DURING ACCELERATION
FEB 88 47. ECCENTRIC SHAFT PULLEY BOLT
JAN 88 48. HEATER & A/C SYSTEM REPAIR
NOV 87 49. HARD START WITH COLD ENGINE
NOV 87 50. ENGINE SPEED INCREASES EXCESSIVELY AT COLD STARTING
NOV 87 51. Hesitation, Bucking, Ignition Misfire, Engine Stall
NOV 87 52. Poor Performance From Fuel Injector
NOV 87 53. CLUSTER SWITCH
OCT 87 54. HARD START AFTER HEAT SOAK
AUG 87 55. AUTO CRUISE CONTROL O/D CANCEL SYSTEM OF 4-SPEED A/T MODELS
AUG 87 56. OPERATION OF ETR (ELECTRONICALLY TUNED RADIO) SCAN TUNING BUTTON
JUL 87 57. FLYWHEEL TURNING TOOL
JUL 87 58. FUEL TANK FILLER PIPE HOSE
MAY 87 59. RADIO RECEPTION PROBLEM USING SCAN
APR 87 60. CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE FOR TIRE PROBLEMS
APR 87 61. OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER
MAR 87 62. COOLANT LOSS
MAR 87 63. SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR SLEEVE
FEB 87 64. A/C CAUTION LABEL
JAN 87 65. SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT (SIL) TROUBLESHOOTING
JAN 87 66. WATER FLOW NOISE FROM HEATER
DEC 86 67. Company Name Change for Vendor
DEC 86 68. RX-7 Heater Amp Control Box (FB01 61 185)
86 69. MODIFIED DEFLECTOR LINK
OCT 86 70. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
OCT 86 71. Actuator Modification
OCT 86 72. CPU Damage from Water Leak
OCT 86 73. KEY ILLUMINATION HARNESS (OUTER DOOR HANDLE)
SEP 86 74. 1986 & 1987 RX-7 Spark Plug Service Program
SEP 86 75. FIRST AND SECOND GEAR SYNCHRONIZER RING MODIFICATION
AUG 86 76. FRONT WHEEL HUB
AUG 86 77. S.R.T. MANUAL REVISION
AUG 86 78. WHEEL ALIGNMENT TOE CONTROL HUB
JUL 86 79. MANUAL TRANSMISSION MODIFICATION OF OVER TOP GEAR & COUNTER GEA
JUL 86 80. MODIFICATIONS FOR IMPROVED DOOR GLASS OPERATION (POWER & MANUAL
JUL 86 81. REAR SUSPENSION SUB-FRAME WASHER
JUN 86 82. CORRECTION TO WORKSHOP MANUAL/FRICTION PLATES
JUN 86 83. High Mount Stop Lamp
JUN 86 84. MODIFIED REAR WINDOW
JUN 86 85. REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER HARNESS
JUN 86 86. REVISION TO AIR CONDITIONING S.R.T. MANUAL
MAY 86 87. ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
MAY 86 88. COMPACT DISC SYSTEM OPERATION TEMPORARY PAUSE IN DISC PLAY
MAY 86 89. CORRECTION TO WORKSHOP MANUAL/TRANSMISSION LUBRICANTS
MAY 86 90. DOOR GLASS ADJUSTER MODIFICATION
MAY 86 91. NEW KEY BLANKS AVAILABLE FOR PRIMARY KEY
MAY 86 92. PROPER TORQUE OF A/C COMPRESSOR BLOCK FITTING BOLT
MAY 86 93. REVISION OF S.R.T. MANUAL
MAY 86 94. Throttle Sensor Checker
APR 86 95. Poor Fuel Economy, Performance And Emissions
APR 86 96. CLUTCH ALIGNMENT PINS
APR 86 97. CLUTCH DISC
APR 86 98. INSTALLATION OF 2-WAY (CB) RADIOS
APR 86 99. INSTALLATION OF AERO PARTS ACCESSORIES (PREPARATION)
APR 86 100. Modification of ACC Checker
APR 86 101. REAR SUSPENSION CONTROL LINK
APR 86 102. REAR SUSPENSION SUB-FRAME NUTS
MAR 86 103. WORKSHOP MANUAL CORRECTIONS
MAR 86 104. COMPACT DISC SYSTEM
MAR 86 105. WORKSHOP MANUAL CORRECTIONS/LABELS
FEB 86 106. CPU MODIFICATION
FEB 86 107. Special Tools for the 1986 323, 626 & RX-7
DEC 85 108. MAT SET PLATE FOR REAR SEAT
DEC 85 109. POWER ANTENNA MODIFICATION
DEC 85 110. Pre-Delivery Inspection Sheet Correction
NOV 85 111. FUSES TO BE INSTALLED AT PDI
NOV 85 112. Spark Plugs
OCT 85 113. OPTIONAL NEW AIR DAM SKIRT INSTALLATION
SEP 85 114. Audio Systems
AUG 85 115. 1986 BEGINNING VINs
AUG 85 116. 1986 Pre-Delivery Inspection
MAR 85 117. P..D.I. AND FIRST FREE INSPECTION

Year: 1987

Make: Mazda

Model: RX7

Engine: 2RTR-1308cc 80

JUN 94 1. PARTIAL ENGINE AVAILABILITY (LONG BLOCK)
APR 94 2. A/C 0-RING REPLACEMENT
MAR 94 3. PARTIAL ENGINE (LONG BLOCK) AVAILABILITY
FEB 94 4. U00194 - 02/28/94
APR 93 5. PROPER PREPARATION FOR EMISSION INSPECTION TEST
JAN 93 6. FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER KIT AVAILABLE
DEC 92 7. AVAILABILITY OF REAR 3 POINT SEAT BELTS
NOV 92 8. PROOF OF EMISSIONS RECALL CORRECTION LABEL CALIF. VEHICLE
SEP 92 9. HARD SHIFTING AFTER COLD WEATHER - R TYPE TRANSMISSION
JUL 92 10. FUEL SYSTEM, MANUAL TRANSMISSION - MANUAL UPDATE
JUL 92 11. HARD SHIFT TO 2ND GEAR AFTER COLD START
APR 91 12. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT EXCHANGE PROGRAM
FEB 91 13. PREVENT DAMAGING ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL
DEC 90 14. RECEIVER/DRIER FUSE PLUG ELIMINATION
DEC 90 15. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNITS
AUG 90 16. EC-AT PROPER CONNECTION
JUL 90 17. PREVENT DAMAGING REAR OIL SEAL WHILE ASSEMBLING
JUN 90 18. CRUISE CONTROL WARNING
JUN 90 19. NOISE FROM REAR SUSPENSION DURING ACCELERATION OR DECELERATION
MAY 90 20. USE OF TIMING LIGHT ON DISTRIBUTOR-LESS IGNITION SYSTEM
MAR 90 21. SPECIAL TOOLS MODIFICATION
MAR 90 22. HELM PROGRAM SERVICE COLLATERAL
JAN 90 23. RECONDITIONED ANTIFREEZE, NOT RECOMMENDED
DEC 89 24. A/C BUZZING NOISE
DEC 89 25. MISFIRE AND HESITATION OVER 6000 RPM
DEC 89 26. NOISE FROM THE WATER FLOW INSIDE THE HEATER UNIT
DEC 89 27. POOR AIR CONDITIONING COOLING PERFORMANCE
DEC 89 28. POWER ANTENNA TROUBLESHOOTING
DEC 89 29. VEHICLE DIFFICULT TO FUEL
NOV 89 30. REAR 3-POINT SEAT BELT INSTALLATION
JUL 89 31. PROGRAM
JUN 89 32. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DRIVEN PLATE PARTS CATALOG REVISION
JUN 89 33. HARD SHIFT IN LOW TEMPERATURE
MAY 89 34. AUDIO SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING
MAR 89 35. STATIC ELECTRICITY SHOCK
FEB 89 36. USE OF REGULAR UNLEADED GASOLINE
NOV 88 37. IMPROPER OPERATION OF POWER WINDOW REGULATOR (Ball Type)
NOV 88 38. MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY CHARGING & TESTING PROCEDURES
OCT 88 39. COLD ENGINE HARD TO START
OCT 88 40. TURBOCHARGER FLANGE
SEP 88 41. USE OF CORPORATE LOGO
JUN 88 42. FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS, PAD, ETC.
MAY 88 43. EGI CONTROL UNIT & FUEL INJECTORS
MAY 88 44. NO. 2 PRE-CONVERTER BRACKET
APR 88 45. ROUGH IDLE
APR 88 46. AIR BLEED SOCKETS
APR 88 47. MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY
MAR 88 48. TRANSMISSION BEARINGS
FEB 88 49. SURGE OR STUMBLE DURING ACCELERATION
FEB 88 50. ROUGH IDLE OR STALL AFTER COLD START
FEB 88 51. CLUTCH DISC
FEB 88 52. ECCENTRIC SHAFT PULLEY BOLT
JAN 88 53. HEATER & A/C SYSTEM REPAIR
NOV 87 54. HARD START WITH COLD ENGINE
NOV 87 55. ENGINE SPEED INCREASES EXCESSIVELY AT COLD STARTING
NOV 87 56. Hesitation, Bucking, Ignition Misfire, Engine Stall
NOV 87 57. Poor Performance From Fuel Injector
NOV 87 58. HARD START AFTER HEAT SOAK
SEP 87 59. NORMAL CONDITIONS OF FM & AM RADIO RECEPTION
AUG 87 60. AUTO CRUISE CONTROL O/D CANCEL SYSTEM OF 4-SPEED A/T MODELS
AUG 87 61. OPERATION OF ETR (ELECTRONICALLY TUNED RADIO) SCAN TUNING BUTTON
JUL 87 62. BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
JUL 87 63. CORRECTION & MODIFICATION OF A/C HOSE CLAMP
JUL 87 64. CENTERSHAFT GEAR
JUL 87 65. ENGINE COOLANT
JUL 87 66. FLYWHEEL TURNING TOOL
JUL 87 67. FUEL TANK FILLER PIPE HOSE
JUL 87 68. INSTALLATION OF A/C DISCHARGE HOSE
JUL 87 69. LOWER ARM & STABILIZER BRACKET
JUL 87 70. SPECIAL TOOL REPAIR
JUN 87 71. COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR APPLICATION
JUN 87 72. COMPRESSOR REFRIGERANT LEAKAGE
JUN 87 73. MODIFIED CLUTCH DISC
MAY 87 74. BRAKE PROPORTIONING BYPASS VALVE
MAY 87 75. RADIO RECEPTION PROBLEM USING SCAN
MAY 87 76. REAR STABILIZER BRACKETS & PLATES
MAY 87 77. REVERSE GEAR SYNCHRONIZER RING
MAY 87 78. S.R.T. MANUAL REVISION - RADIO SYS. & TRANS. REPAIR TIM
APR 87 79. Hard Starting, Rough Idle Or Poor Acceleration
APR 87 80. CHANGE OF LOCATION FOR PLACING REBUILT ROTARY ENGINE ORDERS
APR 87 81. CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE FOR TIRE PROBLEMS
APR 87 82. OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER
APR 87 83. ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TIRES
APR 87 84. S.R.T. MANUAL REVISION - MAINTENANCE & REPAIR TIME
MAR 87 85. ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
MAR 87 86. COOLANT LOSS
MAR 87 87. CORRECTION TO AIR CONDITIONER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION
MAR 87 88. SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR SLEEVE
FEB 87 89. A/C CAUTION LABEL
FEB 87 90. SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT (SIL) TROUBLESHOOTING
FEB 87 91. WIRE HARNESS FOR RIGHT-HAND SIDE CLUSTER SWITCH
JAN 87 92. WATER FLOW NOISE FROM HEATER
DEC 86 93. Air Control Valve Tester
DEC 86 94. Power Steering Control Unit
DEC 86 95. RX-7 Heater Amp Control Box (FB01 61 185)
NOV 86 96. MODIFIED DEFLECTOR LINK
NOV 86 97. SYNCHRONIZER RINGS
NOV 86 98. WORKSHOP MANUAL CORRECTIONS
OCT 86 99. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
OCT 86 100. KEY ILLUMINATION HARNESS (OUTER DOOR HANDLE)
SEP 86 101. 1986 & 1987 RX-7 Spark Plug Service Program
SEP 86 102. FIRST AND SECOND GEAR SYNCHRONIZER RING MODIFICATION
SEP 86 103. OIL SEAL AND COMPANION FLANGE
AUG 86 104. 1987 BEGINNING VINS
AUG 86 105. FRONT WHEEL HUB
AUG 86 106. S.R.T. MANUAL REVISION
AUG 86 107. WHEEL ALIGNMENT TOE CONTROL HUB
JUL 86 108. REAR SUSPENSION SUB-FRAME WASHER
JUN 86 109. CORRECTION TO WORKSHOP MANUAL
JUN 86 110. High Mount Stop Lamp
JUN 86 111. REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER HARNESS
MAY 86 112. Throttle Sensor Checker
APR 86 113. BEGINNING VIN FOR 1987 RX-7 TURBO

Year: 1988

Make: Mazda

Model: RX7

Engine: 2RTR-1308cc 80

JUN 94 1. PARTIAL ENGINE AVAILABILITY (LONG BLOCK)
APR 94 2. A/C 0-RING REPLACEMENT
MAR 94 3. PARTIAL ENGINE (LONG BLOCK) AVAILABILITY
FEB 94 4. U00194 - 02/28/94
PR 93 5. PROPER PREPARATION FOR EMISSION INSPECTION TEST
JAN 93 6. FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER KIT AVAILABLE
DEC 92 7. AVAILABILITY OF REAR 3 POINT SEAT BELTS
NOV 92 8. PROOF OF EMISSIONS RECALL CORRECTION LABEL CALIF. VEHICLE
SEP 92 9. HARD SHIFTING AFTER COLD WEATHER - R TYPE TRANSMISSION
JUL 92 10. FUEL SYSTEM, MANUAL TRANSMISSION - MANUAL UPDATE
JUL 92 11. HARD SHIFT TO 2ND GEAR AFTER COLD START
APR 91 12. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT EXCHANGE PROGRAM
FEB 91 13. PREVENT DAMAGING ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL
DEC 90 14. RECEIVER/DRIER FUSE PLUG ELIMINATION
DEC 90 15. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNITS
AUG 90 16. EC-AT PROPER CONNECTION
JUL 90 17. PREVENT DAMAGING REAR OIL SEAL WHILE ASSEMBLING
JUN 90 18. CRUISE CONTROL WARNING
JUN 90 19. NOISE FROM THE FRONT STRUT
20. USE OF TIMING LIGHT ON DISTRIBUTOR-LESS IGNITION SYSTEM
21. SPECIAL TOOLS MODIFICATION
22. HELM PROGRAM SERVICE COLLATERAL
23. RECONDITIONED ANTIFREEZE, NOT RECOMMENDED
DEC 89 24. AUDIO STORAGE TRAY MAY NOT STAY CLOSED
DEC 89 25. MISFIRE AND HESITATION OVER 6000 RPM
DEC 89 26. POWER ANTENNA TROUBLESHOOTING
NOV 89 27. REAR 3-POINT SEAT BELT INSTALLATION
JUL 89 28. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT PROGRAM
JUN 89 29. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DRIVEN PLATE PARTS CATALOG REVISION
JUN 89 30 IN LOW TEMPERATURE
MAY 89 31. AUDIO SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING
MAR 89 32. STATIC ELECTRICITY SHOCK
FEB 89 33. USE OF REGULAR UNLEADED GASOLINE
DEC 88 34. AUDIO STORAGE TRAY
NOV 88 35. IMPROPER OPERATION OF POWER WINDOW REGULATOR (Ball Type)
NOV 88 36. MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY CHARGING & TESTING PROCEDURES
OCT 88 37. COLD ENGINE HARD TO START
OCT 88 38. TURBOCHARGER FLANGE
SEP 88 39. USE OF CORPORATE LOGO
JUL 88 40. CURRENT DRAW FROM THE BATTERY
JUN 88 41. DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR OF A/C REFRIGERANT LEAKS
JUN 88 42. REFRIGERANT CHARGE SERVICE
JUN 88 43. ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
JUN 88 44. FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS, PAD, ETC.
MAY 88 45. EGI CONTROL UNIT & FUEL INJECTORS
MAY 88 46. NO. 2 PRE-CONVERTER BRACKET
MAY 88 47. AIR CONDITIONER KIT INSTALLATION
APR 88 48. COMPANION FLANGE & PROPELLER SHAFT
APR 88 49. ROUGH IDLE
APR 88 50. AIR BLEED SOCKETS
APR 88 51. MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY
52. ROUGH IDLE OR STALL AFTER COLD START
FEB 88 53. CLUTCH DISC
FEB 88 54. HEATER CONTROL (LOGICON)
JAN 88 55. AUDIO SET IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (ID NO.)
JAN 88 56. BATTERY (PANASONIC)
JAN 88 57. HEATER & A/C SYSTEM REPAIR
NOV 87 58. ENGINE SPEED INCREASES EXCESSIVELY AT COLD STARTING
NOV 87 59. Poor Performance From Fuel Injector
NOV 87 60. HARD START AFTER HEAT SOAK
OCT 87 61. NEW STYLE WIRING DIAGRAM
SEP 87 62. 1988 BEGINNING VINS
SEP 87 63. ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TIRES
AUG 87 64. CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE FOR TIRE PROBLEMS

Year: 1989

Make: Mazda

Model: RX7

Engine: 2RTR-1308cc 80

JUN 94 1. PARTIAL ENGINE AVAILABILITY (LONG BLOCK)
APR 94 2. A/C 0-RING REPLACEMENT
MAR 94 3. PARTIAL ENGINE (LONG BLOCK) AVAILABILITY
FEB 94 4. U00194 - 02/28/94
APR 93 5. PROPER PREPARATION FOR EMISSION INSPECTION TEST
JAN 93 6. FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER KIT AVAILABLE
NOV 92 7. PROOF OF EMISSIONS RECALL CORRECTION LABEL CALIF. VEHICLE
SEP 92 8. HARD SHIFTING AFTER COLD WEATHER - R TYPE TRANSMISSION
SEP 92 9. A/C O-RING INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
JUL 92 10. V BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT
JUL 92 11. HARD SHIFT TO 2ND GEAR AFTER COLD START
OCT 91 12. BRAKE ROTOR AND DRUM INSPECTION
APR 91 13. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT EXCHANGE PROGRAM
MAR 91 14. COOLING, A/T, FUEL SYSTEM - MANUAL CORRECTION
MAR 91 15. HESITATION ON HARD ACCELERATION BETWEEN 3500-4000 RPM
FEB 91 16. PREVENT DAMAGING ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL
DEC 90 17. RECEIVER/DRIER FUSE PLUG ELIMINATION
DEC 90 18. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNITS
AUG 90 19. EC-AT PROPER CONNECTION
JUL 90 20. PREVENT DAMAGING REAR OIL SEAL WHILE ASSEMBLING
JUN 90 21. CRUISE CONTROL WARNING
JUN 90 22. ELECTRONIC OIL METERING PUMP TERMINALS SWITCHED
JUN 90 23. NOISE FROM THE FRONT STRUT
JUN 90 24. SUB-ZERO STARTING ASSIST DEVICE DISCONTINUED, ENGINE MODIFIED
JUN 90 25. CRUISE CONTROL OPERATION CHANGED
JUN 90 26. USE OF TIMING LIGHT ON DISTRIBUTOR-LESS IGNITION SYSTEM
MAY 90 27. On Vehicle Maintenance Manual Corrections
APR 90 28. SPECIAL TOOLS MODIFICATION
MAR 90 29. HELM PROGRAM SERVICE COLLATERAL
FEB 90 30. RECONDITIONED ANTIFREEZE, NOT RECOMMENDED
DEC 89 31. USING THE EC-AT TESTER
DEC 89 32. 407289
NOV 89 33. ELECTRICAL SHORT MAY CAUSE ROUGH IDLE OR NO START
NOV 89 34. TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS, OIL NOZZLE & OIL METERING TUBE
SEP 89 35. IDLE SPEED HUNTING OR FLUCTUATION
JUL 89 36. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT PROGRAM
JUN 89 37. HARD SHIFT IN LOW TEMPERATURE
MAY 89 38. AUDIO SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING
MAR 89 39. HOOD LATCH ASSEMBLY REMOVAL & REINSTALLATION
MAR 89 40. INCORRECT HORN WIRING HARNESS ROUTING
MAR 89 41. STATIC ELECTRICITY SHOCK
FEB 89 42. USE OF REGULAR UNLEADED GASOLINE
FEB 89 43. PROPER INSTALLATION OF CHANGE ROD BOOT
NOV 88 44. MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY CHARGING & TESTING PROCEDURES
SEP 88 45. USE OF CORPORATE LOGO

Year: 1990

Make: Mazda

Model: RX7

Engine: 2RTR-1308cc 80

JUN 94 1. PARTIAL ENGINE AVAILABILITY (LONG BLOCK)
APR 94 2. A/C 0-RING REPLACEMENT
MAR 94 3. PARTIAL ENGINE (LONG BLOCK) AVAILABILITY
FEB 94 4. U00194 - 02/28/94
APR 93 5. PROPER PREPARATION FOR EMISSION INSPECTION TEST
APR 93 6. OIL SMELL AROUND THE SHIFTER LEVER
JAN 93 7. FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER KIT AVAILABLE
NOV 92 8. PROOF OF EMISSIONS RECALL CORRECTION LABEL CALIF. VEHICLE
SEP 92 9. HARD SHIFTING AFTER COLD WEATHER - R TYPE TRANSMISSION
SEP 92 10. A/C O-RING INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
JUL 92 11. V BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT
JUL 92 12. HARD SHIFT TO 2ND GEAR AFTER COLD START
OCT 91 13. BRAKE ROTOR AND DRUM INSPECTION
APR 91 14. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT EXCHANGE PROGRAM
MAR 91 15. HESITATION ON HARD ACCELERATION BETWEEN 3500-4000 RPM
FEB 91 16. PREVENT DAMAGING ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL
DEC 90 17. RECEIVER/DRIER FUSE PLUG ELIMINATION
DEC 90 18. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNITS
AUG 90 19. EC-AT PROPER CONNECTION
JUL 90 20. PREVENT DAMAGING REAR OIL SEAL WHILE ASSEMBLING
JUN 90 21. CRUISE CONTROL WARNING
JUN 90 22. ELECTRONIC OIL METERING PUMP TERMINALS SWITCHED
JUN 90 23. SUB-ZERO STARTING ASSIST DEVICE DISCONTINUED, ENGINE MODIFIED
JUN 90 24. CRUISE CONTROL OPERATION CHANGED
JUN 90 25. KEY MISTAKENLY LEFT ON ACC
JUN 90 26. USE OF TIMING LIGHT ON DISTRIBUTOR-LESS IGNITION SYSTEM
MAY 90 27. On Vehicle Maintenance Manual Corrections
APR 90 28. SPECIAL TOOLS MODIFICATION
MAR 90 29. HELM PROGRAM SERVICE COLLATERAL
MAR 90 30. A/C SYSTEMS GAS-CHARGE AMOUNTS
FEB 90 31. RECONDITIONED ANTIFREEZE, NOT RECOMMENDED
DEC 89 32. USING THE EC-AT TESTER
DEC 89 33. 407289
NOV 89 34. ELECTRICAL SHORT MAY CAUSE ROUGH IDLE OR NO START
NOV 89 35. TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS, OIL NOZZLE & OIL METERING TUBE
OCT 89 36. 1990 BEGINNING VINS
SEP 89 37. IDLE SPEED HUNTING OR FLUCTUATION
MAY 89 38. AUDIO SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

Year: 1991

Make: Mazda

Model: RX7

Engine: 2RTR-1308cc 80

JUN 94 1. PARTIAL ENGINE AVAILABILITY (LONG BLOCK)
2. A/C 0-RING REPLACEMENT
3. PARTIAL ENGINE (LONG BLOCK) AVAILABILITY
FEB 94 4. U00194 - 02/28/94
APR 93 5. PROPER PREPARATION FOR EMISSION INSPECTION TEST
APR 93 6. OIL SMELL AROUND THE SHIFTER LEVER
JAN 93 7. FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER KIT AVAILABLE
DEC 92 8. PROOF OF EMISSIONS RECALL CORRECTION LABEL CALIF. VEHICLE
SEP 92 9. HARD SHIFTING AFTER COLD WEATHER - R TYPE TRANSMISSION
SEP 92 10. A/C O-RING INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
JUL 92 11. MODIFIED A/C COMPRESSOR
JUL 92 12. V BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT
JUL 92 13. HARD SHIFT TO 2ND GEAR AFTER COLD START
OCT 91 14. BRAKE ROTOR AND DRUM INSPECTION
MAY 91 15. TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE 800 PHONE LINES
APR 91 16. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNIT EXCHANGE PROGRAM
MAR 91 17. HOOD LATCH LUBRICATION MAINTENANCE
MAR 91 18. HESITATION ON HARD ACCELERATION BETWEEN 3500-4000 RPM
FEB 91 19. TIRE PRESSURE CHECK DURING PDI
DEC 90 20. RECEIVER/DRIER FUSE PLUG ELIMINATION
DEC 90 21. REMANUFACTURED EGI CONTROL UNITS
OCT 90 22. NOISE & VIBRATION REPAIR SUMMARY
OCT 90 23. 1991 VIN NUMBERS
24. SPECIAL TOOLS MODIFICATION

Year: 1992

Make: Mazda

Model: RX7

Engine: 2RTR-1308cc 80

JUN 94 1. PARTIAL ENGINE AVAILABILITY (LONG BLOCK)
MAR 94 2. A/C 0-RING REPLACEMENT
MAR 94 3. PARTIAL ENGINE (LONG BLOCK) AVAILABILITY
FEB 94 4. U00194 - 02/28/94
APR 93 5. PROPER PREPARATION FOR EMISSION INSPECTION TEST
JAN 93 6. FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER KIT AVAILABLE
NOV 92 7. PROOF OF EMISSIONS RECALL CORRECTION LABEL CALIF. VEHICLE
APR 92 8. TRANSIT COATING REMOVAL
JAN 92 9. PRE-DELIVERY ADMINISTRATIVE MATERIAL
DEC 91 10. PERFECT DELIVERY PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION ITEMS
BRAKE ROTOR AND DRUM INSPECTION

Thanks to:

Tuck for being the main contributor and publisher of this comprehensive list. Keep up the good work!

Jeff Nappi and Reto for putting together and running the RX-7net.

Don St.John, for the CPU cold solder fix.

Dana Sullivan, for the 3800 rpm hesitation fix and the TPS test light construction instructions.

Trey Cobb, for the Turbo II Performance FAQ.

Mike Mario, for the Logicon Fix and TSB title list.

Everyone else.